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A landscape photograph of Lake Agnes and the Devil's Thumb near the Lake Agnes Teahouse above Lake Louise

Devil’s Thumb – 2024

When our girls were younger, we hiked to the Lake Agnes Teahouse together. I remember parking at the Lake Louise lot around 8:30 AM, everyone eager to trek up the mountain with the promise of tea and treats at the top. By mid-morning, we arrived at the teahouse, waited in line for about 10 minutes, found a table inside, and enjoyed our snacks before heading back down to the car. Sounds pleasant right?

Fast forward to summer 2024. The girls are about five years older, and the number of visitors to Banff National Park, especially to Lake Louise, has steadily increased. In 2023, visitation hit a record high, prompting Parks Canada to introduce new rules to manage the growing crowds. Normally, these changes don’t affect us since we tend to explore quieter, lesser-known trails. But in 2024, we decided to hike the Big Beehive, which extends beyond the Lake Agnes Teahouse. The problem? Lake Louise is still the trailhead. Gone are the days of simply driving into the parking lot and starting the hike. Now, you have to drive to the Lake Louise Ski Resort, wait in line for a shuttle you booked months in advance, and then get dropped off at the trailhead.

After an hour-long wait for our shuttle, we finally arrived at Lake Louise around 9 AM and made it to the teahouse by 10:30. The crowds at Lake Agnes were unbelievable—nothing like I’d ever seen on a moderately challenging hike. The girls queued for their tea and snacks, but after a 45-minute wait, they had to settle for tea to go since finding a table was impossible.

Even though the experience wasn’t what it used to be, it had its photographic rewards. With no pressure to rush, I spent nearly an hour capturing the changing light and dramatic atmosphere before we continued our hike up to the top of the Big Beehive. Afterward, we waited another hour for the return shuttle, marking the end of our hiking adventure.

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